Tailored Expositions: Dark Comme des Garçons FW27

Rei Kawakubo’s proposition for the Fall/Winter 2027 collection of Comme des Garçons Homme Plus was dark. Unveiled in January during Paris Fashion Week, on Friday 23, it seemed to have come 10 days too late, for Jason Voorhees was present through and through. There were some Hannibal Lecters, too. With face coverings on the models, the runway got a distinctively sinister touch, accompanied by punk rock music. The strident guitars mowed through as if a scythe through tall grass. That was the feeling. The green, earthy scent broken down into pieces on your nose as it forcefully separated from its natural state. That was the feeling in Comme des Garçons’ assortment.

 As if saying that there was a need for protection of the face, of the identities within each, the reassembled suits are original, some in vinyl. There were some exaggerated proportions and eye-catching zips. The palette was almost monochromatic, and it just seemed to say: “Just look up here, we are all wearing masks.” Is Kawakubo no longer interested in clothes taking center stage? Is she warning about the erosion of privacy and personal data in an era of AI and surveillance? Social unrest? There were so many questions that came through from a sartorial effort that brought nothing that Haderlump hasn’t already done. Everything was about the face mask; not much seemed to happen down where the fabrics are stitched and interwoven. Kawakubo talked about everything—about everything but the fit.