Tailored Expositions: Aesthetic Discomfort in Haderlump’s Fall/Winter 2026 collection

“Solivagant” is the name of the Fall/Winter 2026 collection by Haderlump, a Berlin-based independent atelier known for raw, urban streetwear and expressive, rebellious tailoring. The collection - the latest work of designer Johann Ehrhardt - was introduced at the historic Wintergarten Varieté theater. Etched into history books as the first venue to hold a commercial movie screening, and later a stage for icons like Houdini and Josephine Baker, the original theater was destroyed in the 1940s (you can watch Cabaret if you want to know why).

 Featuring strong coats and structured blazers, the main focus of the outfits was the wide-legged bottoms, with an extra amount of fabric that covered so much of the space surrounding the silhouette of the models, as if to say that filling up that space was necessary for the logic behind the fit - which reminds us of the Japanese concept of Ma, which explains emptiness as a gap with a purposeful presence, rather than as an absence.

 Fabrics looked weighty, and the juxtaposed textures of heavy wools, denims, and leathers, all in a dark, obscure palette, made that overwhelming feeling more tangible and palpable still. The silhouettes looked compelling and thoroughly underground, but the tailoring did not seem comfortable or versatile enough for day-to-day wear. The concept is brilliant, but the wearability is everything but the fit.