Tailored Expositions: Arrogance in Dior’s SS27

Jonathan Anderson produced a stylish arrogance for the Dior spring/summer 2027 collection. It was reminiscent of the HBO "Succession" episode "Prague," where the aristocratic elegance money can buy met the unkempt aftermath of a rave. The runway was staged at the Parisian Musee Nissim de Camondo and set to custom music by British DJ Fred again.., who understood the assortment’s intention of mixing historical motifs with contemporary philosophy.

Lightweight, sheer and flowing chiffon was used throughout, as well as sequined pants and printed houndstooth. The ultralight fabrics seemed to convey a message that no clothes should rest heavy on one’s shoulders — that no cloth shall hinder movement. Yet the opulence that the collection wanted to achieve rests on the exaggerated use of extra fabric. Weight is light here; volume is excessive.

The oversized clothing looked phenomenal and captivating, but it would look disastrous on any silhouette not as lanky as that of a professional runway model. The tailoring was superb, but the tone of the clothing was dismissive. The wreckage of an afterparty was there, but so was the haughty attitude of the nepo babies who left drinks half-empty and trash behind, careless of the consequences of the mess they made at night.

Clothes speak for you. They let you thrive if you caress them, and make you wear them poorly if you are under their spell. This collection is pretty to watch, but neither useful, comfortable nor expressive of a message that should make you proud. As a whole, this is everything but the fit.