Luxe Lineup: Schiaparelli Couture Fall/Winter 2025 Collection

Titled “Back to the Future”, Schiaparelli’s Couture Fall/Winter 2025 collection brings Daniel Roseberry’s vision to the Petit Palais in Paris. The collection is inspired by the period before World War II when Elsa Schiaparelli made her name in fashion, drawing heavily from her 1938 Zodiac Collection which was created just before she fled Paris ahead of the Nazi invasion. The show both begins and concludes with replicas of her work, from a black skirt suit with one of her famous embroidered jackets to open to a rendering of her Apollo cape to close. However, true to typical Schiaparelli fashion, the cape and other elements of the runway are inverted. The Apollo cape is worn backwards, a fake torso appears on the back of a dress, and a saddle is transformed into a front-facing bustier.

Garments are typically black and white with some intentional bursts of red. Black seemingly references the past, with stylistic elements like gloves, hats, and tights carrying the color through almost every look. Similarly, metallic touches of gold and silver can allude to the future, bridging the two times to result in the theme of the runway. Any red is confined to three evening gowns towards the end of the runway. All looks are paired with a black lip and some black accent, except for the three red looks which feature a red lip and no other color.

A pairing of black and gold is unsurprising for Schiaparelli, but what is shocking is how remarkably wearable the couture collection is. One can envision many of the looks on a red carpet or premiere, especially since waists and hips are defined through less restrictive techniques instead of the house’s famous corseted silhouettes. Some pieces like jackets, skirts, or the pantsuit in Look 10 can even be worn more casually.

Ultimately, Roseberry manages to give archival Schiaparelli a futuristic spin without losing the drama and surrealism the house is known for. From pieces referencing Elsa’s Zodiac Collection to typical black-and-gold moments, heritage is honored while also combining with forward-thinking details to ensure the collection doesn’t feel stuck in the past. For a couture audience that values artistry but still appreciates wearability, the balance in Schiaparelli’s Couture Fall/Winter 2025 collection is exemplary. For these reasons, “Back to the Future” earns a score of Opulent Allure for an exquisite show that makes history feel ahead of its time.